Dal Lake is the reason most people come to Srinagar, and it changes character through the day. Mornings are quiet and working. Afternoons belong to visitors. By evening the water goes still and the houseboats begin to light up.
Start early at the floating market
The vegetable market on the lake runs at dawn and is over soon after. Growers from the lake’s floating gardens arrive by boat and trade from one shikara to the next. Arrange your boat the evening before, wrap up well, and carry cash in small notes.
Take the long shikara ride
A shikara is the slow, canopied boat you will see lined up along Boulevard Road. The shore ghats are numbered, so it is easy to find your way back to where you started.
Agree on the route and the total fare before you step aboard. A short loop gives you the houseboats and the open water. A longer ride can include:
- Char Chinar, the small island named after its four chinar trees
- Nehru Park, a green stop in the middle of the lake
- The lake’s inner channels, where homes, workshops and vegetable plots line the water
Walk the Boulevard
Boulevard Road follows the lake’s eastern shore and makes a pleasant walk once the day cools. The Mughal gardens of Nishat and Shalimar lie further along this same side of the lake, and an afternoon in either pairs well with a morning on the water.
Stay for the evening
Late afternoon is the best time for photographs, when the light is low across the water and the hills behind turn soft. In autumn, the trees on the far bank turn gold. Find a window or a bench that faces the lake and let the last boats come in.
A simple plan for the day
If you only have one day, try this order. It keeps you on the water when the light is best and off it when the sun is strongest.
- Before sunrise: take a boat to the floating market, then return for a hot breakfast.
- Mid-morning: rest for an hour, or walk a stretch of the Boulevard before it gets busy.
- Midday: eat early, then head to Nishat or Shalimar, which have shade under their old chinar trees.
- Late afternoon: board your long shikara ride, timed to finish around sunset.
- Evening: walk along the lakefront as the lights come on, then have a relaxed dinner.
Timings change sharply through the year. Summer sunrise is very early and the evenings are long, while in winter the market is a colder, shorter affair and the sun drops quickly. Ask us the evening before, and we will tell you when to set your alarm.
Choosing a shikara
Shikaras are all broadly similar: a flat wooden boat with a canopy, cushioned seats and a boatman paddling at the stern. Pick one that looks clean and comfortable, and check that you can see out easily if you plan to take photographs. Rates are usually quoted per boat rather than per person, so the same price applies whether there are two of you or four, up to the boat’s limit.
Boatmen often offer a set of standard routes. Ask how long the ride will last, which stops are included, and whether any shops along the way are part of the tour. It is perfectly normal to skip those stops if you are not interested in shopping. A longer ride is much more rewarding than a rushed one, as the quieter channels take time to reach.
Staying on the shore or on a houseboat
Houseboats are a classic part of a Kashmir holiday, and an hour spent visiting one can be a good way to see the carved woodwork up close. Staying on the shore has its own advantages: road access for your car and luggage, easy walks along the Boulevard, and no boat needed to come and go at night. Many visitors enjoy the lake by day and sleep on the shore.
The lake through the seasons
Each season gives the lake a different look. Spring brings fresh green to the shore, and in high summer lotus flowers spread across parts of the water. Autumn turns the trees copper and gold, with the houseboats reflected on still mornings. In winter, the lake is at its quietest, and boat rides are short and very cold, so dress accordingly. Read our guide to the best time to visit Srinagar for more on each season.
Good to know
- Carry a light layer, even in summer. It is cooler on the water.
- Keep phones and cameras well away from the edge of the boat.
- Take your rubbish back with you. The lake is a working home for many people.
- Vendors in boats will come alongside your shikara. A polite no is fine.
- Ask us at the front desk if you would like help arranging a boat.
